Wind up the Boost on that 1HZ

Wind up the Boost on that 1HZ


Something Shane and the boys get asked a lot is (how much boost can I run in my 1 Hz land cruiser) unfortunately all cars and 4wds are different but as an average below is some guidelines to follow.

Hzj75/80 1hz as they don’t run a compensator on the pump 7-10 psi.

Hzj75/80 1hz if boost compensated 10-15 psi.

Hzj75/80 1hz intercooled and compensated 15-20 psi.

Hzj79/105 early models don’t have a compensator so 7-10 psi..

Hzj79/105 late has an altitude compensator which can be modified to be a boost compensator 10-15 psi.

Hzj79/105 intercooled and boost compensated 15-20 psi.

Always run egt gauges.

We regularly see egts of 550 with non-intercooled and non-ceramic coated pistons, yet with ceramic coating and intercoolers we tend to see temps of around 400 degrees under load.

As always there are exceptions to the rule and there are plenty of customers we have supplied kits to running in excess of 25psi, however no matter what boost you choose to run we recommend having the engines dyno tuned so as to make sure the engine doesn’t lean out or over fuel and damage the engine.

Why wait to get your Crankshaft checked

Why wait to get your Crankshaft checked



Getting your crankshaft inspected or ground in Perth can be a difficult thing to do. Why should you or your the customer wait, when you wanted to know yesterday well that’s why we are here.


We have 2 crankshaft grinding Machines at Noordeman Diesel which allows us to do twice as many cranks and also allows us to do nearly everything from a single-cylinder engine up to multi-cylinder engines up to 2.6 metres long and we have 3 experienced crank grinders who know how to use these machines.

All crankshafts need to be crack tested.  Some experienced crankshaft grinders like us also own a lectro magna flux crack tester. Not just white paint can with black ink.


Basically the lectro Magna flux crack tester magnetizes the crankshaft and then the special fluid is poured over the crankshaft. If a crack is present it will attract the crack testing fluid particle and under a special light, the crack is identified under a fluorescent light.


Some cracks can be ground out, some will make the crankshaft unserviceable. Some are also ok to leave… If you are unsure just bring your crankshaft in and we can crack test your crankshaft and let you know if it needs a grind or a polish.


We can repair the nose of the crankshaft if its damaged, metal spray an oil seal area just check out our Facebook page. ‘ Noordeman Diesel’


If it’s out of your sports car, high-performance crank, old vintage collection, your LandCruiser, large earthmoving piece of gear a crankshaft is a crankshaft.

So let’s get cranked and bring it in before you throw a rod with frustration.



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Why is there water under my car

Why is there water under my car

Why is there Water Under my Car?


I was talking to my roommate one night when she asked me why her car leaks water?

This isn’t an uncommon question that I am asked so my response was what Colour is the water?

She was surprised to hear my response as water doesn’t have any colour, but the water inside the engine referred to as coolant (anti-freeze) does consist of Colour. Don’t be alarmed if you see water under it could be present for one of two reasons; one to be taken more seriously.


1st reason:  if the fluid is clear you have no need to worry as this is more than likely condensation caused by your air conditioner condenser. This is commonly caused by the use of an air-con or even just the outside temperature on a hot day or humid day.


2nd Reason: If the fluid on the ground under your car does consist of Colour you may have a coolant or oil leak it is highly recommended you take your car to a mechanic immediately. These leaks are commonly caused by a crack, split or corrosion of the radiator or cooling system.

Below is a list of possible leaks and the colours they would be:
  • – Clear fluid is condensation
  • – Green is coolant
  • – Blue is coolant
  • – red is coolant – commonly used in Toyotas
  • – yellow is coolant
  • – orange is coolant
  • – black or dark brown is dirty  is engine oil
  • – translucent yellow honey Colour is clean/new engine
  • – rust colour – an indication of dirty or untreated water in a radiator
  • – reddish, yellowish stain  is an indication of a fuel leak on a petrol engine
  • – yellow orange puddle is an indication of a diesel leak
  • – brown, black or grey oil puddle under a manual vehicle is either a gearbox or differential leaks
  • – red translucent oil puddle is a power steering or an automatic transmission leak
  • – translucent yellow/green, blue to black leak could be brake fluid – check straight away under the bonnet



If it is a coolant leak it is best to check your coolant levels regularly to ensure you are still running “water“ in your engine, running your car/engine without coolant can lead to overheating causing the engine head or block to crack or split or worse seizing of the entire engine causing catastrophic damage.


Manufactures of engines (Ford, Toyota, Nissan, Holden etc.) have different Colour coolants.

Always Remember: Never mix different coolant colours, always use the same Colour additive.

If you think you have a coolant leak this is something we can help you with!

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Knock knock there is a Gremlin under my bonnet

Knock knock there is a Gremlin under my bonnet

We get a lot of phone calls about Toyota Prado and Hilux 1KD engines, these are Common Rail injector engines. They have a couple of common issues that can cause significant engine damage if left unattended including blowing smoke or a knocking rattling sound that can lead to blowing up your engine.

The most common fault is Diesel knock which basically sounds like there is a little man with a hammer hitting your engine block with a hammer some say a rattling sound under the bonnet. The knocking /rattling sound gets worse on acceleration.

This is usually caused by the spindle in the center of the injector seizing which causes over fueling in the cylinder and when an injector starts to dump fuel in the ECU will start to try and take fuel out and lean out the engine causing a knocking sound.

A lot of companies use the electronic diagnosis of injectors to isolate which of the injectors are faulty and while this will give you a good idea it’s not necessarily 100% right.

The idea being that the fuel system can adjust the required amount of fuel the ECU thinks the engine needs to even out the idle speed and have a nice smooth idle. Most of the variance from this idle is usually caused by faulty injectors, but there are other things like cylinder compression being low, blocked intake manifolds from EGR deposits (which affect the rear 2 cylinders), engine timing being out, bad/dirty tank of fuel and lastly the suction control valves and fuel pumps.

The picture above with melted piston on the left was running with a faulty injector squirting and dripping excess fuel in the cylinder melting the piston, the cylinder beside it shows no wear at all in comparison.

We recommend servicing or replacing the injectors every 100,000km to be on the safe side as it’s cheaper to get your injectors serviced than overhauling your engine. Not that I would complain about rebuilding your engine with our ceramic coated pistons and supped up fuel system with hydro dipping on your externals bit.

Another issue is simply worn out injectors due to the high pressure whether it is from a diesel chip or erosion itself, usually evident is large amounts of black smoke and a drop off in power, the gradual decline usually means the owner doesn’t even notice over time. This can happen anywhere from 80-100000km depending on grades of diesel fuel used and lack of fuel servicing. To get more out of your Hilux or Prado Noordeman Diesel loves remapping of an ECU over the use of the chips that are common on today’s market as they increase fuel rail pressure to a dangerous level to get the more power but at the expense of the parts themselves and the engine lifespan.

Next is a cracked 1KD piston which would have benefitted from our ceramic coating we do this to all of our pistons and valves to handle a lot more heat.

Last up we have injector failure (standard wear and tear or erosion), this is where the clearances in the injectors or the cylinder bore wear, the amount of fuel leaked into the cylinder is higher producing a less effective amount of fuel into the cylinder meaning more fuel comes out the leak-off, rather than being put into the cylinder, which means the amount of fuel that the ECU thinks it’s injecting into the cylinder will be highly increased.

More evidence of how it can be just the one cylinder has gone however if you look at the tip of the top one it to was already on its last legs.

Need your Engine fixed today? Grab a quote CLICK HERE



EGR stands for “Exhaust Gas Recirculation”


Put simply, it recycles your exhaust gases back into your engine in order to reduce the number of gases and pollution put into the atmosphere by your car  it’s an emission control things

Some people say you should blank off of your EGR valve with a plate. Other advise against it.


If you clean the EGR valve every 20, 000 km you will be helping the environment and won’t be breaking the law and your vehicle will have a better chance of running a lot better than it most probly is or be like the day you picked the your vehicle up from the car yard


A lot of the new Diesel engine  vehicles and are now beginning to use Add blu which you might have started to see at your local service stations.  Ad Blue converts harmful NOx from your diesel vehicle exhaust into harmless nitrogen and steam, therefore considerably reducing the emissions of nitrogen oxides


Some diesel engines need AdBlue to help them meet tough Euro 6 emission control that regulate the level of harmful emissions can come out of a car’s exhaust.


AdBlue isn’t mixed with the diesel fuel. Instead, it works with the exhaust gasses after they come out of the engine. It is injected into the exhaust gases and burnt at very high temperatures to break down harmful nitrogen oxides


If you accidentally pour AdBlue into the fuel tank, don’t start the car. The fuel tank will need to be drained.

I digress back to the EGR


The EGR system is a necessary evil (to your engine petrol or Diesel) to reduce pollution emissions. As such, whilst it is good for the environment, it can be bad for your engine.

the main purpose of keeping the EGR clean and working is to deal with

  • – Performance gains (including better fuel consumption, smoother boost/power delivery).
  • – Quieter running engine.
  • – Clean, fresh air intake.
  • – No limp mode or fault codes.



Lets us know how we can help!

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How to Convert your 1HZ to 1HDT

How to Convert your 1HZ to 1HDT

Toyota 1HZ is an indirect injection –
Which means they have a Precombustion chamber is in the cylinder head – the injector injects directly into the Preco chamber ( this is why it is common for 1HZ cylinder heads to be cracked )


Perkins 212 – 236 -248 WTF is the difference?

Perkins 212 – 236 -248 WTF is the difference?

My Perkins 4cyl block has a hole in it

Basic specs on a  Perkins 4-212 , 4-236 and 4-248

Engine type 212 236 248
Bore size 3.8750 3.8770 3.9750
Stroke 4.50 5.00 5.00
Square back Non-stress block Yes Yes Yes
Flanged back stress block No Yes Yes
More specific specifications at the bottom of the blog


Cylinder blocks difference

  • – You can use a 212 cyl block to make a 236 or a 248 Perkins or vice versa they all can be modified to replace each other.
  • – You can convert a 4-236 to be a 248 but you won’t really notice that much difference in extra HP. Fuel system can stay the same
  • – There are flange liner blocks and non-flange liners e. Non-flanged liners are known as parrel liners
  • – The early type Cylinder blocks have flanged and parrel liners fitted. the top of the liner protrudes and this is known as the fire ring.
  • – Fire rings type liners require top set u5lt1014
  • – The later type 4-236 blocks have flanged liners. these have no fire ring and the top of the liner is flush with the top of the cyl block
  • – 236 flanged liners are available  STD Oversize backs you can get .010 and .040 oversize backs
  • – Non-fire ring-type blocks require a different top gasket set U5lt1004
  • – You can convert a chrome liner block to a cast liner block by changing counterbore depths
  • – 2 hole or 4 hole lift pumps make no difference
  • – You can fit a lip seal or rope seal cranks to either you may have to drill to the bolt holes
  • – If you want to swap the crankshaft from balance weight to a non-balance weight you may run into a problem with the oil pump
  • – If swap the oil filter from one side to the other of the block you will need to change crossover tubes/ relief valve from the oil pump




  • 212 crankshaft has a different stroke to 236 and 248…
  • 236 and 248 crankshafts are the same there are some variations
  • there are balance weight and non-balance weight types.
  • lip seal or rope seal ( if swapping seal types you may have to drill out the rear of the cylinder block to suit )
  • splined nose or non-splined nose
  • non-spline nose cranks have 3 bolt holes – splined nose has 1 bolt hole




  • All the conrods are the same and interchangeable
  • All small end bushes are the same
  • Conrod nuts and bolts are the same



Cylinder heads

  • 212, 236, 248 all the cylinder heads the same and interchangeable
  • All valves and springs are interchangeable



212 Flanged Cast Iron Liners

Parent Bore Diam:                           4.0625-4.0635″

Recess Depth:                                   0.150 -0.152″

Outside Diameter:                           4.0645-4.0655″

Interference Fit:                               0.001 -0.003″

Piston Height:                                    0.015 -0.021″

Finished Bore Diameter:               3.877 -3.878″



236 Flanged cast liners

Parent Bore:                                      4.0625-4.0635″

Recess Depth:                                    0.150 -0.152″

Outside Diameter:                            4,0645-4.0655″

Interference Fit:                               0.001 -0.003″

Piston Height: (above)                    0.003 -0.010″

Finished Bore Diameter:               3.877 -3.878″



236 Parrel liners

Parent Bore:                                      4.0625-4.0635″

Recess Depth:

Outside Diameter:                           4,0645-4.0655″

Interference Fit:                               0.001 -0.003″

Piston Height: (above)                    0.003 -0.010″

Finished Bore Diameter:               3.877 -3.878″



248 Flanged cast liners”

Parent Bore:                                      4.1045-4.1005″

Recess Depth:                                   0.150 -0.152″

Outside Diameter:                           4,0645-4.0655″

Interference Fit:                                0.001 -0.003″

Piston Height: (above)                    0.003 -0.010″

Finished Bore Diameter:               3.877 -3.878″



248 Flangeless Liner

Parent bore:                                      4.0615 /4.0625

Outside Diameter:                           4.0655-4.0665″

Interference Fit:                               0.003 -0.005″

Finished Bore Diameter:               3.9875-3.9795″

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