New Perkins – Caterpillar engines

Perkins Complete Replacement Engines – Available now…..

We are pleased to communicate our new range of Perkins complete replacement engines available to order with immediate effect

 

Part Number Based on the Build List Engine
NL51894 NL38740 1104D-44T/C4.4T
NL83385 NL38738 1104D-44T/C4.4T
NM83384 NM38734 1104D-44T/C4.4T
NL83578 NL38925 1104D-44T/C4.4T
NL83626 NL38972 1104D-44T/C4.4T
NL83629 NL38967 1104D-44T/C4.4T
NM83630 NM75167 1104D-44TA/C4.4TA
NM83631 NM75169 1104D-44TA/C4.4TA
NR83467R NR82763R 1104D-E44TA(Unity)C4.4-E44TA
NR83468R NR82767R 1104D-E44TA(Unity)C4.4-E44TA

 

Any Caterpillar Perkins inquiry if it is for spare parts or a new engine or even a cross-reference  CLICK HERE

 

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“Your Engine Our Passion” our 14 Step Guide to Happiness

“Your Engine Our Passion” our 14 Step Guide to Happiness

Your Engine Our Passion:

 

We don’t take this statement lightly we live by these words we treat every engine as if it’s one of our own. We do not just pump out generic engines we build your dream engine, the right way the 1st time by following our 14 step procedure.

 

Step 1
Remove the engine from the vehicle
Now while we know some people like to remove their own engines not everyone can so that’s where we will start step one. We take photos of the vehicle from every angle prior to removing the engine and give the job its own job number which we tag the keys with. Next, we take photos of the engine before we dismantle it as not all engines are the same so we can refer back to them to double-check the engine at the end of the rebuilding process. We then dismantle the engine taking photos of the engine’s internals to show our customers and tag all of the engine components with tags that include the job number so everything is easily identified once it’s in pieces. We then allocate one of our engine containers to store the parts in while we get everything ready for our acid bath and hot wash tank or our ultra-sonic cleaner.

 

Step 2
Cleaning the engine
Acid Bath, Ultrasonic Cleaner and Hot wash
All of the engine components including the block, cam, crank, con rods, and cast heads are put into the acid bath which completely immerses the engine components to remove all of the built-up carbon and dirt and residue collected throughout the engines life, this means we clean out every bit of build-up even in the internal galleries of the block and cylinder heads, while any aluminum-based components are placed in our agitating ultrasonic tank and then into our hot wash tank. We also place our acid bathed components in the hot wash to clean out any leftover acid from the bath.

 

Step 3
Measuring and quoting
All engines are measured against manufacturers specs to find out how much machining needs to be done to the components using our calibrated measuring equipment so we can go through and quote up everything that will be required to rebuild the engine after the customer has received the quote and has given us the go-ahead to rebuild their pride and joy.

 

Step 4
Reboring, Sleeving Honing and Decking
Once the block has been acid bathed cleaned and measured against factory clearances and tolerances and the customer has given us the ok we set the block up on one of our AMC boring and milling machines, once bolted down into place and we rebore each cylinder either for a new sleeve to take it back to standard or we bore the block out oversize usually to either -020 or -040 as per the quote, we then use our Sunnen hone to get the bore size to the exact tolerance needed to give the engine its best chance at a longer and greater engine life. From here the engine is then either decked or the counterbores are cut for sleeves and then decked ready for the new pistons and rings or the sleeve which is then rebored the same way as the parent block.

 

Step 5
Linishing or Grinding
Whilst the block has already been machined we need to look at the rotating items of the engine such as the Camshaft and the Crankshaft as they have both usually seen better days and need to be either linished/polished or they need to be reground to remove any pitting or imperfections from the previous life they lived, we also check the seal running surfaces for the front and rear seals as dirt and build-up usually gouge out or run a line in the seals sitting area so we grind out the seal area and rebuild it back up by metal spraying and remachining to the correct size, we can also do this for the nose of the crank should the keyway have damaged it.

 

Step 6
Cylinder Head Machining
Every cylinder all head is crack tested and pressure tested and any faulty heads are replaced, whilst we have already decked the block surface the cylinder head will also require the same process after the valve train has been machined and restored to the manufacturer’s specifications. We start by checking the cylinder heads harness and then when this is within spec we move onto the drivetrain of the cylinder head. The valves usually wear the guides and the seats out from wear and tear over the years of service so we have to either replace the guides and seats or remachining the existing components. It’s after all the head is ready to be assembled we reface the cylinder head ready to be assembled.

 

Step 7
Connecting Rods
Whether they are forged or cast rods they need to be checked for straightness and size for the gudgeon/piston pins and the crankshaft diameter if they are out of specification some rods can be straightened and the pin bush resized on our con rod hone ready for assembly.

 

Step 8
Replacement Parts
All existing parts such as fuel pumps, injectors, turbos, timing chains, gears, oil pumps, camshaft, main and big-end bearings, hydraulic lifters, rocker shafts, rocker arms, gaskets, and seals are checked for correct sizes or damage and are either cleaned up or they are replaced as required which is part of the original quote, we like to check everything in a two-step process at the time of quote and once again at the time of washing and assembling as sometimes the engine components require more work than what was quoted on originally.

 

Step 9
Final Washing
After all of the machining is finished our team carefully washes all engine components major and minor to make sure every spec of contamination has been removed and that the engine parts are all ready for final assembly, this is not like the cleaning at the start to remove dirt and build-up this is to make sure there is no swarf or any foreign objects in the engine and galleries that could harm the engine before it’s had a chance to live.

 

Step 10
Long Engine Assembly
Engine assembly is carried out by qualified and competent engine reconditioners. This immensely important stage is carried out in a sealed and temperature-controlled area ensuring the engines stay extremely clean and dust-free. Whilst assembling is carried out by measuring and testing components at all stages and continually referring to the engine technical datasheets, including checking piston heights with dial gauge for precision to give precise compression ratio, which is critical to overall performance and fuel efficiency. All components are fully tested including the oil system on our test bench where we run oil through the oil system of the engine to ensure that the engine has the correct flow prior to sealing the engine and cleaning everything up ready for shipping or for complete engine assembly.

 

Step 11
Long engine vs Complete engine
Now while some customers only require a long engine which is the rocker cover through to the sump to seal the engine this does not include any of the timing elements of the engine or any of the accessories such as the fuel pump, injectors, turbo, manifolds, alternator, spark or glow plugs for this you need to continue on for a complete engine which is still a few more hours work to get the engine ready for shipping or for install. All engines are cling wrapped to maintain cleanliness during storage or for fitting in our in-house mechanical workshop.

 

Step 12
Engine Installing
Now that the engine builder has finished working his magic it’s over to our highly qualified mechanical team to inspect his work and check to make sure everything is ready for the vehicle to be brought back to life. The team inspects all of the cooling systems, mounts, clutch, and flywheel have either passed inspection or have been replaced or upgraded. Once the engine has been carefully refitted to the vehicle the team pressure test the cooling system and double-check over the timing, the fuel, and the oil before breathing life back into the engine ready for the final step.

 

Step 13

Startup and Run-in
Now that the engine is back ready to start we get our engine builder back and as a team, we start up and bed in the camshaft and internals whilst checking everything step by step, after the cam is bedded in we shut the engine down and inspect for any oil, fuel or coolant leaks we then refit the bonnet and tighten up the hoses ready for its maiden voyage sticking to our warranty run-in procedure and service schedule. After the vehicle has been cleaned and inspected again the customer is informed that the car is ready to collect or if requested we can run the engine in for the 1st crucial service.

 

Step 14
Enjoy all the hard work the Team at Noordeman Diesel has put into building your new dream engine.

 

 

For a High-Performance, Ceramic coated rebuild kit  CLICK HERE

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Three Things to Consider When Looking for Engine Reconditioning

Three Things to Consider When Looking for Engine Reconditioning

As a car enthusiast, you’ve no doubt come across the term ‘engine reconditioning’ in ads, on websites or on other blogs – we’ll forgive you for checking out other blogs – but do you know what engine reconditioning actually involves?

The definition of engine reconditioning varies depending on whom you are speaking with, as there are no strict, government-regulated guidelines for what can be classified as a reconditioned engine.

At Noordeman Diesel, we are proud members of the Engine Reconditioners Association of Australia (ERA) and we adhere to a number of processes to ensure your reconditioned engine performs as you expect. We are also one of the two quality endorsed engine reconditioners in Perth.

Car owners have their engines reconditioned when they are damaged to the point of failure, or become excessively worn, with the expectation that the reconditioned engine will perform ‘like new’.

As a basis, engine reconditioning generally involves disassembling the engine, with each part of the engine cleaned and checked. From here, the technician performing the reconditioning will make note of the parts that need to be re-machined, replaced or repaired.

To rebuild your engine, each of these parts is carefully reassembled and tested to ensure they perform at optimal capacity, leaving you with a reconditioned engine that will hopefully see you through for years to come.

 

 

Benefits of Engine Reconditioning in Perth

When a reputable company performs engine reconditioning, the major benefits you may experience are better performance, better efficiency and a longer lifespan, as well as a significantly lower cost than buying a brand new engine for your car.

So when it comes to engine reconditioning in Perth, what should you be looking for to ensure you’re getting the best bang for your buck?

 

1. Have the Wearable Components Been Checked or Replaced?

If you’re paying the money to have your engine reconditioned, you want to know that all those wearable components have had a good once over and that they are working as they should, or if any parts that are faulty, worn or inefficient, they are replaced.

Some common wearable components include gaskets, valve train parts, timing belts, bearing pistons and oil pumps.

If these components are replaced, they should be an exact match to the previous components in your engine – ensure these new parts meet the specifications of your older parts.

What happens when the parts don’t match, we hear you ask? Parts that don’t match the specifications of your previous components may result in your engine seizing up or failing.

 

2. Machined Parts

Your engine as a whole is a well-crafted machine; with a number of high quality, engineered moving parts that work in unison to keep you moving. Some of the more significant parts of your engine are the smaller machines, such as the valve seats, crankshaft and connecting rods.

When an engine is reconditioned, it is paramount to make sure these machined parts still meet the high quality, engineered standards you would expect from a brand new engine.

 

3. Price & Compatibility

When it comes to price and compatibility of your reconditioned engine, old sayings like “if it sounds too good to be true, it probably is” and “you get what you pay for” spring to mind.

While a rebuilt, reconditioned engine is certainly a much more cost-friendly choice than buying a brand spanking new engine, it is vital to do your research to make sure that too-good-to-be-true price is legitimate.

This is also where compatibility ties in – with a reconditioned engine, all components need to be compatible to ensure the engine operates properly. One wrong, incompatible part may result in the engine system failing, costing you more money in the end.

 

 

Why Choose Noordeman Diesel for Engine Reconditioning in Perth

If you’re on the hunt for a diesel engine specialist to carry out your engine reconditioning in Perth, there’s one name you can trust: Noordeman Diesel.

With a fully equipped workshop based in Welshpool, WA, we are your one-stop-shop for engine reconditioning, servicing, rebuilding, engine machining, complete new engines, and genuine spare parts

Contact Noordeman Diesel today to find out how engine reconditioning could have your engine performing like new in next to no time.

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Why wait to get your Crankshaft checked

Why wait to get your Crankshaft checked

 

 

Getting your crankshaft inspected or ground in Perth can be a difficult thing to do. Why should you or your the customer wait, when you wanted to know yesterday well that’s why we are here.

 

We have 2 crankshaft grinding Machines at Noordeman Diesel which allows us to do twice as many cranks and also allows us to do nearly everything from a single-cylinder engine up to multi-cylinder engines up to 2.6 metres long and we have 3 experienced crank grinders who know how to use these machines.

All crankshafts need to be crack tested.  Some experienced crankshaft grinders like us also own a lectro magna flux crack tester. Not just white paint can with black ink.

 

Basically the lectro Magna flux crack tester magnetizes the crankshaft and then the special fluid is poured over the crankshaft. If a crack is present it will attract the crack testing fluid particle and under a special light, the crack is identified under a fluorescent light.

 

Some cracks can be ground out, some will make the crankshaft unserviceable. Some are also ok to leave… If you are unsure just bring your crankshaft in and we can crack test your crankshaft and let you know if it needs a grind or a polish.

 

We can repair the nose of the crankshaft if its damaged, metal spray an oil seal area just check out our Facebook page. ‘ Noordeman Diesel’

 

If it’s out of your sports car, high-performance crank, old vintage collection, your LandCruiser, large earthmoving piece of gear a crankshaft is a crankshaft.

So let’s get cranked and bring it in before you throw a rod with frustration.

 

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Perkins 212 – 236 -248 WTF is the difference?

Perkins 212 – 236 -248 WTF is the difference?

My Perkins 4cyl block has a hole in it

Basic specs on a  Perkins 4-212 , 4-236 and 4-248

Engine type 212 236 248
Bore size 3.8750 3.8770 3.9750
Stroke 4.50 5.00 5.00
Square back Non-stress block Yes Yes Yes
Flanged back stress block No Yes Yes
More specific specifications at the bottom of the blog

 

Cylinder blocks difference

  • – You can use a 212 cyl block to make a 236 or a 248 Perkins or vice versa they all can be modified to replace each other.
  • – You can convert a 4-236 to be a 248 but you won’t really notice that much difference in extra HP. Fuel system can stay the same
  • – There are flange liner blocks and non-flange liners e. Non-flanged liners are known as parrel liners
  • – The early type Cylinder blocks have flanged and parrel liners fitted. the top of the liner protrudes and this is known as the fire ring.
  • – Fire rings type liners require top set u5lt1014
  • – The later type 4-236 blocks have flanged liners. these have no fire ring and the top of the liner is flush with the top of the cyl block
  • – 236 flanged liners are available  STD Oversize backs you can get .010 and .040 oversize backs
  • – Non-fire ring-type blocks require a different top gasket set U5lt1004
  • – You can convert a chrome liner block to a cast liner block by changing counterbore depths
  • – 2 hole or 4 hole lift pumps make no difference
  • – You can fit a lip seal or rope seal cranks to either you may have to drill to the bolt holes
  • – If you want to swap the crankshaft from balance weight to a non-balance weight you may run into a problem with the oil pump
  • – If swap the oil filter from one side to the other of the block you will need to change crossover tubes/ relief valve from the oil pump

 

 

Crankshafts

  • 212 crankshaft has a different stroke to 236 and 248…
  • 236 and 248 crankshafts are the same there are some variations
  • there are balance weight and non-balance weight types.
  • lip seal or rope seal ( if swapping seal types you may have to drill out the rear of the cylinder block to suit )
  • splined nose or non-splined nose
  • non-spline nose cranks have 3 bolt holes – splined nose has 1 bolt hole

 

 

Conrods

  • All the conrods are the same and interchangeable
  • All small end bushes are the same
  • Conrod nuts and bolts are the same

 

 

Cylinder heads

  • 212, 236, 248 all the cylinder heads the same and interchangeable
  • All valves and springs are interchangeable

 

 

212 Flanged Cast Iron Liners

Parent Bore Diam:                           4.0625-4.0635″

Recess Depth:                                   0.150 -0.152″

Outside Diameter:                           4.0645-4.0655″

Interference Fit:                               0.001 -0.003″

Piston Height:                                    0.015 -0.021″

Finished Bore Diameter:               3.877 -3.878″

 

 

236 Flanged cast liners

Parent Bore:                                      4.0625-4.0635″

Recess Depth:                                    0.150 -0.152″

Outside Diameter:                            4,0645-4.0655″

Interference Fit:                               0.001 -0.003″

Piston Height: (above)                    0.003 -0.010″

Finished Bore Diameter:               3.877 -3.878″

 

 

236 Parrel liners

Parent Bore:                                      4.0625-4.0635″

Recess Depth:

Outside Diameter:                           4,0645-4.0655″

Interference Fit:                               0.001 -0.003″

Piston Height: (above)                    0.003 -0.010″

Finished Bore Diameter:               3.877 -3.878″

 

 

248 Flanged cast liners”

Parent Bore:                                      4.1045-4.1005″

Recess Depth:                                   0.150 -0.152″

Outside Diameter:                           4,0645-4.0655″

Interference Fit:                                0.001 -0.003″

Piston Height: (above)                    0.003 -0.010″

Finished Bore Diameter:               3.877 -3.878″

 

 

248 Flangeless Liner

Parent bore:                                      4.0615 /4.0625

Outside Diameter:                           4.0655-4.0665″

Interference Fit:                               0.003 -0.005″

Finished Bore Diameter:               3.9875-3.9795″


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Performance Diesel Kits and extra HP

Performance Diesel Kits and extra HP

 

The need for extra Horsepower and Performance is a growing commodity,   the need for race proven extra strong engine rebuild kits for the 4WD, Off-road market, camping fishing, and Comp Truck. So far we have gained massive horsepower gains from Nissan Patrol TD42T engines, Toyota 1HDT and of course Toyota 1HZ engine.

Upgraded components now are in our performance engine rebuild kit,  we also can ceramic coat valves,  oversize valves, turbo, manifolds so many more modifications in getting that extra performance power out of your engine.

 

Parts include:

  • – Ceramic coated Heavy duty Pistons with moly coated skirts
  • – Pistons with thicker crown castings for higher boost pressures & thermal load
  • – Heavy duty sleeves
  • – Billet forged crankshafts
  • – Heavy duty con rods
  • – Modified cylinder heads with free flowing port designs
  • – Modified camshafts
  • – Safari & DTS turbo kits

 

 

These parts are being tested in 4WD, Comp Truck and the Goss mobile, as well as off-road rally conditions &, are proving extremely robust. These components are legal upgrades for Nissan Patrol & Toyota land cruiser. The idea behind these components is to retain reliability but boost performance, power & torque.

Check out our high-performance Toyota 1FZFE.

Give us a call or an email to discuss performance rebuild options for your Nissan Patrol or Toyota Land cruiser even check out our Facebook page.

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